Reflected back at me, I appear to be wearing enormous shimmering pantaloons, visible exclusively in my view. Children relax in a stone basin pretending to be sea nymphs, meanwhile in the next room sits a chatting legume in a showcase, alongside a imposing pile of mattresses. It represents the universe of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), among the nineteenth-century's widely adored writers. I find myself in the city of Odense, situated in Fyn in the southern part of the Danish kingdom, to discover Andersen’s enduring legacy in his birthplace many decades after his death, and to discover a few magical stories of my own.
The Exhibition: H.C. Andersen's House
HC Andersens Hus is the city’s museum celebrating the author, incorporating his first home. An expert states that in earlier iterations of the museum there was minimal emphasis on his fairytales. The writer’s life was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For guests who visit Odense seeking narrative enchantment, it was somewhat disappointing.
The redevelopment of Odense city centre, redirecting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to rethink how the local celebrity could be honored. An international design contest granted the Japanese company the renowned designers the contract, with the curators’ new approach at the center of the layout. The distinctive wood-paneled museum with interlinked curving spaces opened to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to create a space where we move beyond simply describing the writer, but we communicate similarly to him: with humour, sarcasm and perspective,” explains the representative. The landscape design take this approach: “It’s a garden for explorers and for large beings, it's created to give you a sense of smallness,” he explains, a challenge achieved by strategic landscaping, playing with height, scale and numerous twisting trails in a unexpectedly limited space.
Andersen's Impact
He authored two and a half memoirs and frequently changed his story. The museum adopts this philosophy seriously; typically the views of his acquaintances or excerpts of correspondence are displayed to politely doubt the his narrative of events. “The author is the narrator, but he's untrustworthy,” notes the expert. The effect is a compelling swift exploration of his personal story and art, thinking patterns and most popular stories. It’s provocative and whimsical, for mature visitors and kids, with a additional underground fantasy realm, the fictional village, for the smallest guests.
Visiting the Town
Returning to the real world, the modest urban center of Odense is picturesque, with historic pathways and old wooden houses colored in bright colours. The writer's influence is all around: the street signals feature the storyteller with his distinctive formal headwear, brass footprints offer a no-cost pedestrian route, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Every August this focus peaks with the annual HC Andersen festival, which celebrates the his influence through creativity, performance, drama and melodies.
Recently, the multi-day celebration had 500 shows, most of which were without charge. During my time in this place, I encounter artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an author double narrating adventures. I hear contemporary performances and see an incredible late-night performance with acrobatic dancers coming down from the city building and dangling from a mechanical arm. Still to come in the coming months are lectures, family art workshops and, expanding the oral history beyond Andersen, the city’s regular enchantment celebration.
Every excellent magical places require a fortress, and this region contains numerous historic homes and stately homes across the island
Biking Adventures
Like much of the country, cycles are the best way to get about in this town and a “cycling highway” curves through the downtown area. From my accommodation, I pedal to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then into the countryside for a route around Stige Ø, a compact territory linked by a road to the mainland. Local inhabitants have outdoor meals here following their day, or appreciate a quiet hour fishing, water sports or swimming.
In town, I eat at a local eatery, where the food selection is inspired by author-inspired concepts and stories. The poem Denmark, My Native Land is featured when I visit, and manager the host shares excerpts, rendered in English, as he serves every dish. This is a practice repeated often in my days in the city, the fynbo enjoy storytelling and it seems that storytelling is constantly on the menu here.
Castle Explorations
Every excellent fairytale destinations need a palace, and this region features over a hundred manors and stately homes throughout the region. Traveling briefly from the city, I explore the historic fortress, the region's most intact moated palace. While much of it are open to visitors, Egeskov is also the private residence of the noble family and his partner, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I contemplate if she might sense a pea through a stack of {mattresses
