Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds form.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.

"I've noticed individuals hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of growers who make vintage from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and community plots across Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Across the World

So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned artistic district area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," notes the president.

Mystery Polish Variety

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Across Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established over one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."

Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the help of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Approaches

A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on

Yesenia Brandt
Yesenia Brandt

A passionate architect and sustainability advocate with over a decade of experience in green building design and eco-conscious construction practices.