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When fall sets in, Madrid breathes a collective sigh of relief. All venues is accessible again, and the sweltering summer heat, which seems to ooze from the buildings and sidewalks, has subsided into agreeably mild temperatures. It's the ideal climate for languishing on a cafe terrace as the sun tickles your skin and day transitions into evening. Noise levels have gone back to normal, which means the city is cacophonous once more.

It feels as if the entire population is gathered on the streets, reconnecting with friends and chatting about everything they want to do, the movies they want to see, the recently opened venues they've heard about, and the restaurants they fancy try in the coming months. If you could use a lift, devote a few days in the city of Madrid this autumn.

The dazzling light and clear blue skies elevate your mood the moment you arrive. The city being the most elevated major capital in Europe could be something to do with that. It is also a relatively young capital. Arabs settled here in the ninth century, building a fortress where the king's residence and Almudena cathedral now stand, but Madrid only really got going when King Philip II moved his court here from Toledo in 1561, establishing the city as the fresh capital of Spain.

To gain an understanding of the city's heritage, stroll from the Puerta del Sol – the heart not just of Madrid but of all Spain – to the 17th-century Plaza Mayor, which is surrounded by brick structures with grey rooftops and spindly spires. Then stroll along the curved street, which traces the course of the medieval city wall. Vestiges survive in the basements of several bars and restaurants that started as inns and public houses for merchants and visitors who came by horse-drawn carriage.

In Madrid, you absorb the city's past just by exploring on foot. In the Literary Quarter, the tavern-dotted streets are dedicated to the great writers who lived there in the Renaissance era, such as Cervantes, Francisco de Quevedo, and Lope de Vega.

Step inside, take a spot at the bar and you'll wonder why you aren't residing in Madrid

You could spend weeks in the city's big three museums – Prado, Thyssen Museum, and Reina Sofía – but aim to fit in some additional ones too. The San Fernando Fine Arts Academy gets a fraction of the visitors, despite being just off the Puerta del Sol and boasting astounding collections that feature Goya, El Greco, Pablo Picasso, and Zurbarán.

This autumn, I'm looking forward to the Flamenco Festival (14 Oct-2 Nov), where leading flamenco dancers, vocalists, and artists will be performing new work such as Flamenco Gospel by Juan Carmona. The primary festival venue is the Teatros del Canal, an cultural center designed by Juan Navarro Baldeweg, one of Spain's most renowned designers, who is also an creative (an exhibition of his work is on at Centro Center until 14 December). The Canal Theatres is also a central point for the Autumn Festival (November 6 to 30), one of the top events of the year, with theatre, concerts, and more by local and global artists.

The Chamberí district, where the Teatros del Canal is located, is in a more local area, just north of downtown. The most classic and distinctive areas of the city, regarded as the homes of a "authentic" and unique Madrileño spirit, are called barrios castizos – and Chamberí definitely qualifies that description. Base yourself here for a more authentic feel – try the palatial and stylish Fortuny Hotel, which has doubles from around £160 without meals in the autumn.

As you wander, notice the blooms spilling over the wrought-iron balconies and the gleaming produce outside little shops (particularly the mushrooms at this season) and glance inside the tiny, decorated bars where locals are having a quick coffee or beer. Enter, grab a seat at the bar and you'll wonder why you aren't living in Madrid.

The Trafalgar area, the part of Chamberí closest to the centre, is fast becoming one of the most trendy parts of town, but still has a relaxed, family vibe. I've been meeting friends in the Plaza de Olavide for decades and seen it go through umpteen makeovers.

Eight streets flow into the square, bringing a constant stream of people looking for friends and pulling chairs to form informal configurations of every generation that change constantly as the night wears on. It's normal to arrange to meet one friend here, and find yourself with a group of 10.

Recently opened pubs, restaurants, art spaces, and boutiques are opening in historic locations here, but I love that the people behind them are preserving the authentic fixtures and fittings or sourcing metal counters and refurbishing old bar stools to restore the castizo character, while also adding their own modern vibe. Visit Bar Trafalgar for a cocktail – or maybe a vermouth and a ham and cheese toasted sandwich – and you'll see what I mean. It's the type of spot that works at any time of day or night. I also enjoy the Olavide Book Bar too, both a store and a cafe – browsing books and sipping a glass of wine are among of my favourite things.

Also on my list this autumn is International Architecture Week (until October 13, although some displays run beyond that date). The programme includes an Álvaro Siza show (until 9 Jan 2026) at the Colegio Oficial de Arquitectos de Madrid, a brief walk from the Olavide Square. This is followed by Madrid Another Look (16-19 Oct), when you can visit old structures and parks that are not usually open to the visitors.

At the Fernán Gómez Centro Cultural de la Villa, Leica Photography Exhibition, includes work by Salgado, Steve McCurry, and García-Alix and is open until 11 Jan. And I'll be booking ahead for American Art Exhibition at the Thyssen Museum (October 21 to January 25).

While there's certainly a lot to see and do at this time of year, you don't want to get too hung up on packing your days with plans. Madrid is all about going with the flow. Meander around Retiro Park for a couple of hours, taking in the strikingly bright pink and yellow tones of the oak, chestnut trees, and willow trees. Leave the park on the eastern edge, where Ibiza Street and the surrounding streets have become a culinary destination. I enjoy tapas at the bar at La Catapa or Rox Tavern, although both also have tables if you need to rest tired feet.

There's a lot to see and do at this time of year, but don't pack your days with schedules. Madrid is all about being spontaneous

For more fall colors, it's now a much simpler to visit the elegant Moro Gardens, which descend from the royal palace to the Manzanares River. There was once only one entrance, down by the river – which always seemed like a long walk after walking around the palace. A lot of people didn't know that the gardens were open to visitors. Now, thank goodness, you can enter from the upper side, from the San Vicente Hill or the Vega Slope, which is really handy if you are going to the Royal Collections Museum as there is a connected entrance.

If you haven't visited Madrid for a few years, this museum, which opened in 2023, is a essential, with paintings by Hieronymus Bosch, Titian, Velázquez, and Goya as well as a vast array of treasures {collected|